Everest 2026 spring season opens as 11 guides complete rope-fixing
Synopsis
Nepal's rope-fixing team of 11 guides reached the Everest summit at 10:25 am on 13 May 2026, officially opening the spring climbing season. With a record 492 permits already issued, the 2026 season is shaping up to be the busiest in Everest's documented history.
Key Takeaways
11 Nepali climbing guides summited Mount Everest on 13 May 2026 at 10:25 am , completing the rope-fixing operation.
Eight icefall doctors and 11 climbing guides participated in the full operation.
The SPCC managed the Khumbu Icefall route to Camp II; EOA-Nepal fixed ropes from Camp II to the summit.
A record 492 mountaineers have received climbing permits for the spring 2026 season.
The main summit window is expected in late May 2026 .
Eleven Nepali climbing guides reached the summit of Mount Everest on Wednesday, 13 May 2026, completing the rope-fixing operation that officially opens the world's highest peak for the spring 2026 climbing season. The team topped out at 10:25 am, according to Nepal's Department of Tourism, clearing the high-altitude route for the record number of permit holders already assembled at base camp.
How the Route Was Secured
The Nepali government divided responsibilities between two bodies for the high-altitude operation. The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) was assigned to manage the climbing route through the Khumbu Icefall from Everest Base Camp to Camp II, while the Expedition Operators Association Nepal (EOA-Nepal) was entrusted with fixing ropes from Camp II all the way to the summit. In total, eight icefall doctors and 11 climbing guides took part in the operation.
The Department of Tourism said the task was completed through coordination among multiple agencies despite geographical challenges, seasonal weather variations, and significant operational risks in the high Himalayas.
Who Are Icefall Doctors
Icefall doctors are a specialised team of highly experienced Nepali Sherpas responsible for creating and maintaining the treacherous route through the Khumbu Icefall. They are not medical professionals — the nickname derives from the way they heal the route, installing ladders and anchoring ropes to help climbers safely navigate the unstable glacier and prevent fatal accidents.
The Eleven Who Summited
Nepal's Department of Tourism named all eleven guides who completed the summit push: Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, Pasang Tashi Sherpa, Lopsang Bhutia, Ming Nurbu Sherpa, Chhomba Tenji Sherpa, Guru Bhote, Pam Dorjee Sherpa, Mingma Tenje Sherpa, Ming Temba Sherpa, Dendi Sherpa, and Pasang Nurbu Sherpa.
Record Permits and What Comes Next
Spring is historically the primary Everest climbing season, drawing hundreds of mountaineers and support staff to Nepal each year. As of Friday, as many as 492 mountaineers had received climbing permits for Mount Everest — a record high for any spring season, according to the tourism department. With the route now fully fixed and open, the main summit window — typically a narrow stretch of stable weather in late May — is expected to see a surge of summit attempts in the coming weeks.
Point of View
Quietly executed by Nepali Sherpas and icefall doctors, is the unglamorous backbone of every summit headline that follows, yet these professionals rarely share the spotlight. As permit numbers climb year on year, pressure on the Khumbu Icefall route, waste management, and emergency response infrastructure intensifies. Nepal earns significant foreign exchange from mountaineering royalties, but the record permit count raises legitimate questions about carrying capacity, climber safety, and whether the mountain's long-term integrity is being traded for short-term revenue.
NationPress
3 Jul 2026
Frequently Asked Questions
When did the Everest 2026 spring climbing season officially open?
The spring 2026 Everest climbing season officially opened on 13 May 2026, when a rope-fixing team of 11 Nepali guides reached the summit at 10:25 am, clearing the route from Base Camp to the top.
Who fixed the ropes on Everest for the 2026 season?
The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) managed the route through the Khumbu Icefall up to Camp II, while the Expedition Operators Association Nepal (EOA-Nepal) fixed ropes from Camp II to the summit. Eight icefall doctors and 11 climbing guides carried out the full operation.
What is an icefall doctor on Mount Everest?
Icefall doctors are highly experienced Nepali Sherpas who create and maintain the route through the dangerous Khumbu Icefall. They install ladders and fix ropes to help climbers safely navigate the unstable glacier, and are nicknamed doctors because they heal the route.
How many climbers have permits for Everest in spring 2026?
As of Friday, 492 mountaineers had received climbing permits for Mount Everest for the spring 2026 season — a record high for any spring season, according to Nepal's Department of Tourism.
Why is spring the main Everest climbing season?
Spring is the primary Everest climbing season because high-altitude weather conditions, particularly wind speeds, are most favourable during a narrow window typically in late May, making summit attempts safer and more viable than at other times of year.
