Uri Buri in Akko: How Israel's iconic seafood restaurant survived COVID and conflict
Synopsis
Key Takeaways
Perched above the Mediterranean Sea in the ancient port city of Akko, the celebrated seafood restaurant Uri Buri has become an unlikely symbol of resilience — weathering a devastating fire, a global pandemic, repeated armed conflicts, and the near-total collapse of international tourism, all without shutting its doors for a single unscheduled day.
A Restaurant That Refused to Close
Chef and owner Uri Jeremias, widely known across Israel simply as 'Uri Buri' — a nickname derived from 'buri', the Hebrew word for grey mullet — opened the restaurant in Nahariya in 1988 before relocating to its current home in the Arab quarter of Akko, in the heart of the Western Galilee region. Over three and a half decades, it has grown into one of the country's most recognised dining institutions.
According to Jeremias, the restaurant was never shuttered during the most turbulent periods — except when mandated by government order, amounting to roughly one month in total. 'In the hardest days, we didn't close one day,' he said. 'All the difficult times when rockets were flying, we were working.'
Tourism Collapse and the Loyal Local Base
The last six to seven years have tested the establishment severely. Jeremias estimates that tourists once accounted for 50 to 60 per cent of his clientele — a share that 'dropped to almost zero' as successive crises, including COVID-19 and regional conflicts, halted international arrivals to Israel.
What kept the restaurant afloat, he says, is a loyal local customer base built over decades. 'This stable clientele that we built up during the years has kept us with our head above water,' Jeremias said. 'We can't complain. And on top of it, it doesn't help to complain. So we are happy with what we have and very proud of our team and our clients.'
A Multicultural Workforce as a Point of Pride
Uri Buri's staff reflects the social fabric of Akko itself — a city populated by Jews, Arab Muslims, Arab Christians, and recent immigrants. Jeremias describes the team as spanning 'all backgrounds, all languages and all cultures, religions, and sexual preferences.'
Retention figures underscore the stability: more than half the workforce has been with the restaurant for over 10 years, and some employees have stayed for 30 years. 'We want to have people who want to be together and to work together,' Jeremias said.
Israel's Broader Tourism Recovery Effort
Uri Buri's story unfolds against a wider national backdrop. Israel is actively working to revive international tourism following years disrupted by COVID-19, security concerns, and ongoing regional conflict. The culinary tourism sector — once a significant draw for international visitors — has been among the hardest hit.
Jeremias, however, struck a notably optimistic note about the country's overall economic activity. 'This time, and with all the troubles, the country is blooming. Businesses are going on,' he said. 'The beat goes on; we are here, the restaurant is working.' He acknowledged the 'damage to the tourist economy' but pointed to other sectors continuing to function.
What Comes Next for Culinary Tourism in Israel
As international arrivals to Israel remain well below pre-pandemic levels, restaurants like Uri Buri are being closely watched as indicators of the sector's recovery potential. The return of foreign tourists — and with them, the discretionary spending that once filled half of Jeremias's dining room — remains contingent on regional stability and renewed confidence among international travellers. For now, Uri Buri endures on local loyalty and an ethos that, by the owner's own telling, has never entertained the option of giving up.