Tharoor visits Maheshwar, Ahilya Bai Holkar's historic capital
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A storied fort on the Narmada, an island shrine mid-renovation, and dinner with royalty — Congress MP Dr. Shashi Tharoor made time on Tuesday, November 5, 2026, for a personal pilgrimage to Maheshwar, the Madhya Pradesh town that served as the capital of one of India's most celebrated pre-colonial rulers, Ahilya Bai Holkar.
Tharoor described the visit as one he would 'strongly recommend', taking in the Maheshwar Fort as his overnight base, crossing the Narmada by boat to the partly-renovated Baneshwar shrine, and offering prayers at the town's temples. He rounded the trip with extended conversations over dinner and breakfast with the titular head of the Holkar family, whom he called the 'redoubtable Holkar Maharaj'.
Ahilya Bai's legacy at Maheshwar
Ahilya Bai Holkar, the 18th-century ruler of the Holkar dynasty, governed the Malwa region from Maheshwar and left a legacy that stretches far beyond her state's borders. She commissioned temples, rest-houses, and ghats across the subcontinent — from Varanasi to Dwarka — and is remembered as much for her administrative acumen as for her religious patronage. Maheshwar itself bears the clearest stamp of her vision: the fort complex overlooking the Narmada, the riverside ghats, and a cluster of temples that still draw pilgrims and heritage tourists alike.
The Baneshwar shrine, situated on a small island in the Narmada and long associated with Holkar patronage, is among the sites currently undergoing renovation — a wider pattern of private and state-led restoration efforts being rolled out across Madhya Pradesh's riverine temple circuit.
Political figures and India's pre-colonial heritage
Tharoor's visit fits a recognisable pattern: Indian political leaders across party lines have increasingly made public pilgrimages to sites linked to pre-colonial regional rulers, using them as moments to acknowledge the country's layered cultural and architectural inheritance. For Tharoor — a former Union Minister and former UN Under-Secretary-General who has written extensively on Indian history and civilisation — a stop at Ahilya Bai's capital carries its own intellectual resonance. He called her 'unquestionably great', a phrase that carries weight from someone rarely given to unqualified superlatives.
The Maheshwar Fort, now partly operated as a heritage stay, allows visitors to lodge within the same complex where the Holkar court once functioned — placing history not behind a rope barrier but underfoot at the breakfast table.