The Ministry of Textiles on Thursday, 14 May pushed back sharply against international media portrayals of India as a destination for Western fast-fashion waste, calling such characterisations 'misleading' and asserting that the country operates one of the world's largest textile recovery and recycling networks. The ministry's statement directly challenged foreign reports that focused on clusters such as Panipat while, it argued, ignoring systemic progress in sustainability and regulation.

Key Claims by the Government

According to the ministry, India generates approximately 7,073 kilo tonnes of textile waste annually. Citing the 'Mapping of Textile Waste Value Chain in India 2026' study, the government stated that nearly 97 per cent of pre-consumer textile waste produced during manufacturing is recycled — a figure it presented as evidence of a mature, functional ecosystem rather than an exploitative one.

On the 'dumping ground' allegation specifically, the ministry was unequivocal: over 90 per cent of the nearly 7.8 million tonnes of textile waste managed annually in India originates domestically. Imported waste, it noted, accounts for only around 7 per cent of the total managed volume.

Economic Value of the Recycling Sector

Referencing a report by the Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FICCI), the ministry said India's textile waste ecosystem generates an estimated economic value of around ₹22,000 crore annually — a figure that underscores the sector's scale and its integration into formal economic activity, not merely informal salvage operations.

Additionally, a study by researchers at the Indian Institute of Technology (IIT) Delhi, based on data from the Panipat cluster, found that textile recycling reduces environmental impacts — including greenhouse gas emissions and fossil fuel depletion — by up to 40 per cent compared to virgin fibre production.

Acknowledging Gaps, Defending the Framework

'Broad characterisation of India's textile sector as environmentally negligent or structurally exploitative is misleading and not representative of ongoing regulatory strengthening and sustainability-focused interventions,' the ministry said in its statement.

The government did not dismiss all concerns. It acknowledged challenges related to post-consumer waste management, informal processing units, and worker safety — issues that have drawn scrutiny from environmental groups and international observers. However, it maintained that the industry is steadily moving towards greater formalisation, cleaner technologies, and stronger environmental compliance.

The ministry also noted that textile recycling units operate under established environmental and labour laws, and that regulatory bodies including the National Green Tribunal (NGT) continue enforcement actions against non-compliant units.

The Panipat Question

The Panipat cluster in Haryana — often called the 'cast-off capital' of India — has been a recurring subject of international media investigations into fast-fashion waste flows. Critics have documented concerns over working conditions, chemical use, and the volume of low-grade imported textile waste processed there. The government's response signals a deliberate effort to reframe that narrative with data, though independent verification of the cited figures remains important context for a complete picture.

This comes amid growing global pressure on fast-fashion supply chains, with the European Union advancing extended producer responsibility regulations that could alter how textile waste is exported. India's positioning in this debate carries both regulatory and trade implications going forward.